(6) White Zombie eggs (available now)

6 White Zombie Hatching Eggs (F1 first gen)
White Zombies are a project breed that is a cross from Ayam Cemani bred with White Leghorn. They come from very large white eggs. The hens show very dark pigmentation around the eyes, wattles, comb, and feet but have white feathers and a few black throughout. They are prolific layers of cream colored eggs. The males are recessive- all white like a White Leghorn.
Shipping and Incubation Guidelines
Shipping Details:
• Delivery Timeline: Orders are shipped via Priority Mail (3-5 days). If your order is placed later in the week, shipping will occur the following Monday to ensure freshness.
• Secure Packaging: Eggs are carefully packed, with extra eggs often included as a courtesy when available.
• Insurance: Packages are insured. In the event of damage during transit, please file a claim with the carrier. While I ensure proper handling on my end, I cannot control delays or issues that arise after shipping but will do my best to remedy the situation.
• Freshness and Viability: Eggs are usually freshly laid the day of or the day before shipping. While eggs can remain viable for up to a month, these are at their peak freshness. Minor shipping delays typically do not affect hatchability, but disturbed air sacs and cracks in the shells, or temperature spikes during incubation can affect their ability to hatch. 
Incubation
• Preparation: Ensure your incubator is calibrated for correct temperature and humidity using an independent thermometer and hygrometer.
• For disturbed air sacs: Incubate pointy side down without turning (use an egg carton to secure them).
• For intact air sacs: Eggs can be incubated on their side or upside down.
• Incubation Conditions: Maintain a temperature of 99.5°F and humidity at 60%. Avoid increasing humidity during incubation unless necessary. If your incubator fogs due to high humidity, create additional ventilation by drilling a small hole in the lid or slightly propping it open while maintaining stable temperatures.
• Hatch Rates: Hatch rates cannot be guaranteed due to variables outside our control, including shipping, incubation setup, and environmental factors. Refer to online resources or videos for additional hatching advice
Don’t make these mistakes:
-Taking chicks out while they hatch/not waiting 24hrs after the first one hatched
-Adding more humidity in the last few days with no ventilation
-Opening the incubator in the last few days
-Moving the incubator
-Incubator not displaying correct temp/humidity
The kind of incubators that say to change something out and add more humidity in the last few days are the worst. 70% humidity and up is risking it, especially if the incubator does not vent. It’s hard to keep stable conditions but the best kind seem to be the kind that can hold the chicks after they hatch and maintain steady, moderate humidity around 50-60% and temperature at 99.5-100F.
If you’re not sure why your chicks didn’t hatch, crack them open at the air sac (you can use a flashlight to see where that is). Lightly tap it with the back of a spoon and peel the cracked shell back. If there is a fully formed body, now you know why.
Post-Hatch Care
• Feed: Begin chicks on medicated chick feed. Avoid layer feed, as its high calcium content can harm their kidneys. Avoid high protein game feed as this can cause wing feather development issues.
• Environment: Provide a clean, well-ventilated space for chicks to minimize the risk of illness.
• Heating: Use a heat source that allows chicks to regulate their warmth by moving closer or farther away. A ceramic heat bulb is a safe option. Ensure the heat source is positioned securely and not in direct contact with chicks.
• Housing: Initially, you can use a plastic bin for a brooder. Multiple bins can be connected to separate sleeping and feeding areas. A plant stand or a chair can be used to hold a ceramic heat bulb above the chicks. Around 3 weeks of age, chicks will outgrow this setup and should be moved to a larger enclosure.